Carlos Mazo & Isabel Ruiz
Rioja Oriental
Rioja needs little introduction. The 60,000-hectare wine-growing region along the Rio Ebro has long been established as a home of Spain's greatest red and white wines. Surely less famous is the sub-region of Rioja Oriental. So let's start off with a little deep dive.
Encircled by mountain ranges, Rioja offers a wide variety of climates - from atlantic to mediterranean. Through 120 kilometres along the Ebro River, we also find a variety in microclimate, influenced by tributary rivers, mountains and valleys. Keyword: Terroir.
The region of Rioja takes its name from the Rio Oja, which flows into the Ebro at the western end of the wine-growing region. This area is known as Rioja Alta, or Upper Rioja, surely the most famous of the three sub-regions of Rioja. High-elevation vineyards with maritime influences, close to the river. 21,000 hectares. Along its north, we find the smallest of the 3 subregions, the basque Rioja Alavesa, rising star with high altitudes and a cooler microclimate.. 12,000 hectares. Finally, to the south-west of the two, we find ourselves in the Rioja Oriental. 25,000 hectares. Until 2018, this area was known as Rioja Baja, i.e. low Rioja - because it lies at the southern end of the region. In addition, the lowest vineyards of the region are located here - yet also the highest, at up to 900 metres! Nevertheless. Mediterranean climate, flat vineyards, scorching, dry. For long, that had been the consensus of this wine-growing region condemned to mass production. The drought-resistant, fruity Garnacha grape with its mild tannin structure and supportive acidity thrives especially well here. Due to these characteristics, Garnacha has been established as an attractive blending partner for western Rioja houses focussing on Tempranillo. A powerful, structured grape that can benefit from a little balance and bonus in drinkability, especially in youth. Thus, A culture of grape sale has established itself across Rioja Oriental.
Traditionally, the reputation of Rioja wine is based on its ageing-orientated classification system, from accessible Crianza to monumental Gran Reservas, often well thought-out blends from the various corners of Rioja. Since 2017, an area-based classification system has been added. That means: Vinos de Zona, Vinos de Municipio, Vinedos Singulares. A revolutionary change, that much is clear! We welcome this important step for Rioja's winegrowers; in support of their creative freedom and in the spirit of presenting the potential of villages and selective vineyard they identify with.
One such fascinating village is Aldeanuevo de Ebro. An outwardly inconspicuous, rather timeless municipality in the district of Alfaro, along the south-eastern tip of the Rioja Oriental. The revolutionist top winery "Vinos en Voz Baja" (wines with quiet voice) run by Carlos Mazo and Isabel Ruiz initially appears just as inconspicuous. Backstory: Carlos' father spent most of his life working with Rioja Alta legend Campo Viejo in Logroño, 45 minutes upriver. He spent his days off in his own vineyards, here in Aldeanuevo. However, back then his focus was solely on selling grapes, as was customary. Since 2012, Carlos has taken the reins with a vision in his head: What started out as a garage project with minimal production is now a mini-winery in the centre of town. Carlos' partner Isabel Ruiz, whose family planted the old bush vines for the local wine "Barrio Pastores", supports him on 6 hectares over 10 plots. BTW: Everything operates under organic certifiaction.
The young duo has by now achieved rising star status among Rioja ultras and terroir nerds - in record time! Tim Atkin MW named Carlos "Young winemaker of the year" in 2023. Meanwhile, the two remain entirely down-to-earth. Only a basket press helps in the labor-intense wine cellar. They refuse to intervene any more, in order to present the character of origin of their tiny vineyards, scattered across neighboring villages in such a puristic and self-assured way as remains unmatched in the area. Worth mentioning here: Carlos' great inspiration, top winemaker and pioneer of northern Spain from Bierzo to Priorat, Alvaro Palacios, has his family vineyard located in the neighbouring village. In addition to their revolutionist personalities, these colleagues also share a love for the Garnacha grape, inseperable from the Rioja Oriental.
The wines: from Vinos de Zona to Vino de Parcela.
Costumbres Blanco
Carlos and Isabel call their regional wines "Costumbres" (custom, tradition). Here we find Cuvées of field blends with earlier drinkability and everything you'd wish for in entry wines. Freshness, flavour, fruit. We are writing in plural here because Costumbres is produced in both red and white. The only white of the house, 2000 bottles!
The Costumbres Blanco is an autochthonous blend of tiny parcels along the southern corner of the Rioja Oriental (south-east of Aldeanuevo, around Alfaro and Rincón de Soto). Carlos' and Isabel's plots in Planas Altas, Salobral, Cantarral and Retrespesa are planted with Viura, Calagraño, Garnacha Roya and Tempranillo Blanco vines, over 50 years old. Sandy, loamy, silt. The rather small yields are processed together, foot-pressed and fermented with stems in open vats,without intervention. To complete fermentation, the pure must is transferred to old barriques and bottled unfiltered, low in sulphur, after 8 months. 12.5%, shows a refined structure and solid body, gentle wood influence, creamy, finely polished, floral hints, playful tropical fruit (pineapple, grapefruit). An all-rounder. Excellent with intense fish dishes, grilled veggies, white meat or simply to quench the thirst.
Costumbres Tinto
The red flagship reflects the concept of its white counterpart. Like all of the winery's reds, it is dominated by Garnacha. Small quantities of Tempranillo, Calagraño and Tinto Velasco grow alongside it. Spontaneous whole-cluster fermentation, 10 months of ageing in a mix of wood, cement and glass, which emphasises the fine structure, freshness and fruit of the wine. Incidentally, these old vines are pure bush vines on barren, chalky soils - they were planted without trellises and thus remain close to the ground. The resulting foliage provides ideal sun protection and water retention. In fact, the Costumbres Tinto is an ideal spring and summer wine when lightly chilled. Super juicy, bright, delicate, peppery, salty, a barbecue wine (!), that works with acidity rather than tannin. Wine for the beach, not just for Christmas, they emphasize. Cheers to Glou Glou!
Barrio Pastores
The "Shepherd's Quarter" is a pure Garnacha bottling from the neighbouring vineyards Mazaterón and Montote (approx. 400m, < 1 ha) in Aldeanuevo, which are close to the river and dominated by clay and limestone. Home game. 35-year-old bush vines. Fermentation again with stems in open wood, ageing 11 months in large oak barrels. A rustic, unwavering expression of the village, with charming tannins, berry-bomb-freshness and mediterranean spice Still plenty of ageing potential, but with a little aeration we already find a lot of wine here.
Nace La Sierra
Vino de Parcela. This plot lies at the foot of the Sierra de los Agudos in Yasa de las Cuevas, Calahorra. Hence the name ("beginning of the mountain range")! - which replaces the previous "Erusivo". Half a hectare of Grenache, mixed with Tinto Velasco, Viura and Calagraño. All planted in a Single-Pole-System as pictured below, the cultivation of which is hard labor! Carlos enjoys being able to care for each individual vine. Spontaneous fermentation takes place strictly in concrete. After around 10 days, the wine is bottled in 1,000 litre new oak barrels. The resulting wine appears playful in its youthful freshness, 2022 already shows elegance and finesse, underlying spice, garrigue, wonderful density - a single-vineyard Rioja that doesn't have to wait out the next generation to rock!
