BEIORTE, Dão

Santa Ovaia, Alva

Bea & João

The BEIORTE project was born in 2020 in the small village of Santa Ovaia, near Oliveira do Hospital, seemingly tucked away in the Portuguese wilderness.

In truth, we’re in the southern corner of the historic Dão wine region, in Alva, at the foot of the Serra do Açor.

The region is encircled by mountain ranges that lend the Dão its own remarkably cool microclimate: to the west lies the Serra do Caramulo, to the south the Buçaco National Forest, to the north the Serra da Nave, and to the east the majestic mountain massif of the Serra da Estrela (home to Portugal’s one and only ski resort). These natural barriers not only shield the region from harsh continental winds but also hinder the rainy influence of the coast.

While the Dão region stretches across a vast 388,000 hectares of north-central Portugal, the actual vineyard area is limited to a modest 20,000 hectares. Historic terraced sites lie on cool-climate vineyards at elevations reaching up to 900 meters (though most plantings rest at a comfortable mid-altitude between 400 and 500 meters). These hidden treasures of the Dão are filled with native grape varieties like Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz, and Pinheira, as well as Trincadeira, Alfrocheiro, Jean (Mencía), Baga, Fernão Pires, and many, many more.

Local family-run estates draw on centuries of experience working with a terroir that is often, and not unjustly, described as the Burgundy of Portugal.

The region is defined by a network of rivers, most notably the Dão, from which the region takes its name, as well as the Mondego and the Alva. These rivers carve parallel paths through the granite massif, reflecting the singular terroir of the striking landscape of Dão.

It was in this promising region that João Costa launched the BEIORTE project in 2020. The name itself - translated“wine” - comes from the arguina dialect, an old secret language once spoken by the region's stonemasons, the arguinas.

During the Covid pandemic, João and his partner Bea decided to settle in his hometown and breathe new life into his great-grandfather’s small cellar. For many years, it had supplied the region’s taverns with barrels of table wine. But the young duo was full of drive. They set off in a bold, ambitious new direction.

In the surrounding neighborhood, they have been discovering old vineyards.Small plots planted in historic field blends that had lain dormant for years, forgotten and grown wild.

These deep-rooted vines were cleaned up -revived, we’d say- and today, they’re more vibrant than ever. The result: four unique wines, three reds and one white.

Sr. Roubado branco 2023

The Sr. Roubado is made from grapes grown in an old vineyard in Santa Ovaia, near the winery, at 500 meters elevation.The name and label pay tribute to João’s great-grandfather - and with him, to the tradition of family and village.

These vines were planted in 1960 and expanded in 1980. A big coplantation of Fernão Pires, Bical, Malvasia Fina, Encruzado, Arinto, and several more obscure old varieties. Sparce granite soils yield a very fine, tightly structured wine. In the cellar,it is left on the skins to macerate for four days and then aged partly in oak, partly in steel.

Juicy yet also tea-like, it has something of a sencha lemon iced tea about it. Very fine tannins, a bit ethereal, with a finish full of cured lemon. A well thought out everyday wine.

Sr. Roubado tinto 2022

The red Sr. Roubado is another of João’s tributes to his home village of Santa Ovaia. Tinta Pinheira, Baga, Trincadeira, Alfrocheiro, Jean, Tinta Roriz, Touriga Nacional, Castelão, and more historic varieties grow here in tradtional coplantation.

Planted in 1960 and expanded in 1980, this rugged site produces a surprisingly joyful red. Maceration is kept moderately short (10 days) followed by 15 months in tonneaux (500l) and a further 6 months of rest in stainless steel.

It opens with a fine reduction and an explosion of fresh berries. Loads of sour cherry, fine astringency and a brilliant acidity. Bursting with fruit all over, but bone dry and long on the finish. If we were skiing in the Serra da Estrela, we'd have this one daily.

Cidade 2022

Cidade, a special 1.3-hectare site in Santa Ovaia, tribut to the granite. A mixed planting from 1960 with Tinta Pinheira, Trincadeira, Tinta Carvalha, Alfrocheiro, some Touriga Nacional, Jean, and more. The vineyard faces north, which is unusual but lends the wine an exceptional freshness. Maceration lasts 10 days, followed by 15 months in 500L tonneaux and 6 months of rest in stainless steel.

On impact it is firm, austere. A lightning bolt of acidity, backed by a firm, grippy tannin structure -aronia and blackberry juice come to mind. Tastes healthy. And at just 11.5% alcohol, it’s crazy fun. Still, in this youthful phase, a quick trip through the decanter rewards with the delicate layers of these old vines: sour cherry, red currant, a touch of iron - Südburgenland comes to mind ;).

Palhais 2023

The Palhairas dos Fias is a historic site further north-west in the Dão, near Fiais da Beira on the Rio Mondego. Here, the granite soil is lined with sand, silt, and quartz. João was fortunate enough to adopt this small parcel—an ancient mixed planting from before 1940, consisting of Baga, Cidreiro, Trincadeira, and Touriga Nacional.

The wine undergoes a 9 day maceration and spends 13 months aging exclusively in stainless steel. No wood influence here—the delicate nuances of these ancient vines and the rugged, mineral-rich soils are in focus.

Fresh and precise, a bouquet of bright and dark berries in a garden of herbs, with a berry-driven acidity and hints of grapefruit and pomegranate. There’s a subtle feel of (non-existent) wood influence and a touch of cocoa - very harmoneous combination. Delicately salty on the finish. Reads like a fine piece of chocolate!, but pairs just as brilliantly with marinated pork. In Bairrada, about an hour west, the famous Leitão da Bairrada is traditionally served with orange slices. Reach out if you try the pairing!