Herrenhof Lamprecht - history without compromise

Markt Hartmannsdorf, Vulkanland Steiermark

Gottfried Lamprecht (© Bernhard Bergmann)

Gottfried Lamprecht is a free spirit. Near Markt Hartmannsdorf, in the "Vulkanland" of southeastern Styria, he’s been making a name for himself and his monopole vineyard, the Ried Buchertberg. So far, mostly among insiders. As a new addition to the Klemo portfolio, we aim to change that! We had an extensive conversation with the vintner of the Herrenhof, and we want to share our excitement with you. And the wine. ofc.

When Gottfried speaks about his passion for the Herrenhof estate vineyard, the 11-hectare Ried Buchertberg, every little detail matters. This south-southeast-facing amphitheater directly overlooks the Riegersburg. Its soil composition, shaped by the ancient Pannonian Sea (Tethys), is, typically for the Vulkanland, very diverse. The dominant feature is powerful tertiary calcareous sandstone, interspersed with silt, gravel, and Opok. The subsoil is light and porous, well-aerated, and allows (rather forces) the vines to root deep into the ground in search for nutrients.

© Bernhard Bergmann © Nikolaus Ladenhauf

The vineyard got its name from a beech (Buchen) forest that once covered the area before it was cleared in the 18th century. Gottfried, the "Obstbauernbua" (fruit farmer's lad), only started making wine here in 2006, but he was far from the first to do so. This was once the site of the wine estate belonging to the Augustinian Canons of the Vorau Abbey. Hence the name “Herrenhof” (- the "Chorherren"). After peasant revolts and several changes of ownership, the vineyard lay unused for a long time and overgrew with plantlife. Over the past 100 to 150 years, a biodiverse idyll had grown over the sunny, mineral-rich slopes of the Buchertberg. Gottfried was determined to preserve it — though that’s putting it mildly. With immediate organic certification, he set himself a goal: to craft the ultimate terroir wine of the Buchertberg.

Now this did not happen overnight. Gottfried’s parents were fruit farmers and had mainly grown apples and peaches on the old site. The conditions on the rough, rather dry Buchertberg weren’t ideal for orchard fruit, but the family made a living. So Gottfried, with his parents' support, began to renew the ancient vineyard, parcel by parcel, initially still financed by the orchard farm. People thought he was crazy. What was the “Obstbauernbua” doing? Over the next 15 years, he planted around 70,000 vines on the hill, by hand. Apples and peaches eventually gave way entirely to Furmint, Pinot, and Sauvignon.

He quickly came to the conclusion that there was only one true way to capture the most authentic expression of the Buchertberg: the ultimate field blend. Full focus on the impact of the terroir: on the vines, the grapes, and the wine. From as many angles and perspectives as possible. A true “work in progress,” Gottfried has declared this vineyard a refuge for old grape varieties and continues to plant, tirelessly to this day, every ancient and forgotten grape he can get his hands on. If you're curious about the full list of "ingredients", you’ll find it on the Herrenhof website. Fair warning: it reads like a dictionary. Gottfried counts 115 varieties. Many of them are on the verge of extinction, like Adelfränkisch, Kleinedel, Roter Heunisch, and Räuschling.

Once more we find terroir being at the heart of everything here. Anyone still confusing this as simply soil composition, beware! The Herrenhof definition of terroir is a synthesis of climate and subclimate, weather patterns, soil, the human touch – and even the wood of the wine barrels. At the Herrenhof, all wines are aged in barrels, and the oak used for them grows right nearby, in the Schachingwald forest. Naturally, Gottfried gets his barrels made from these trees. They too play a part in expressing the unique character of his terroir.

© Bernhard Bergmann

On our shelves, you'll find the field blend from the Buchertberg, plus a limited macerated version of it, as well as individual bottlings from distinct single parcels (Furmint, Weißburgunder and Grauburgunder). Lastly, a personal highlight is the ancient field blend from the old Schrammelberg vineyard, made from nearly 100-year-old vines.

Furmint vom Sandstein 2023

Buchertberg Furmint from rough, calcareous sandstone. This historic Hungarian variety is slowly finding its way back to us and winning many hearts along the way, including Gottfried Lamprecht’s, who began working with the grape here back in 2008.

In the glass: bright apple and apricot, plenty of citrus, floral notes, a saline minerality, driven forward by a fine reduction. Clocks in at 11.5% alcohol – low in booze, high in drinkability.

Weißburgunder Sand & Kalk 2023

Weißburgunder from Ried Buchertberg. To be exact, we also find a few scattered vines of Grauburgunder, Welschriesling, and Neuburger hidden between these rows.

This particular parcel has been part of the project from the very beginning. It’s located on the western slope, where calcareous sandstone and Opok dominate the soil. Spontaneously fermented, unfiltered, aged in 600-liter Startin barrels. 11.5%. A wine that’s just fun. Creamy, yellow-fruited, delicate, saline.

Buchertberg Gemischter Satz 2021

True terroir wine. The essence of Buchertberg, the Herrenhof’s house vineyard. A field blend. A “work in progress,” Gottfried has turned this vineyard into a refuge for grape varieties, tirelessly planting any ancient variety he can get his hands on. If you're curious about the full list of ingredients, find it on the Herrenhof website. Fair warning: it reads like a dictionary. Gottfried counts 115 varieties. In the ABC (Appellation Buchertberg Contrôlée), they seem to still be quite flexible.

Aged in Startin barrels on the lees. This traditional Styrian barrel size holds 600 liters and is made from oak sourced from the Herrenhof’s own forest. Complexity in its finest form – tastes like Vulkanland, with a fine Burgundian touch, aromatic yet fresh and full-bodied. Lots of citrus and zest, a summer meadow, with a saline cured lemon finish.

Buchertberg on the skins 2021

For this wine, a small selection of the Buchertberg field blend (specifically the rows of the oldest varieties like Grünfränkisch and Weißer Heunisch) was macerated for one month. A light, clear interpretation of orange wine, very juicy. Still quite authentic! A fascinating comparison to the original. At 10.9%, dangerously drinkable. 0.5 liters in a clay bottle.

Grauburgunder Sand & Kalk “r” 2021

Since 2008, 0.35 hectares of Grauburgunder grow on the Buchertberg. A hillside parcel with a south-southeast orientation on calcareous sandstone. Spontaneously fermented, unfiltered, and aged for three years on the full lees in Startin barrels. The traditional Styrian barrel size holds 600 liters and is made from oak sourced from Herrenhof’s own trees.

This is Grauburgunder with serious structure – copper-colored, deeply aromatic (rose, peach, melon, brioche), yet bone-dry with a fine grip. The maximum expression of this variety, from the Buchertberg.

Schrammelberg “Altsteirischer Mischsatz” 2022

One of the oldest, if not the oldest vineyard in Styria. “A relic, a true field blend,” as Gottfried fondly describes it. Schrammelberg lies farther to the west, in Riegersburg, near the Söchauer Fangberg. Unfortunately, this site is missing from the vineyard register, but to be fair, this mixed plantation spans a mere 0.1 hectares. The steep, cooler eastern slope is dotted with ancient varieties, many of which Gottfried couldn’t identify when he first got his hands on the vines 15 years ago. We know of Welschriesling, Pinots, Furmint, and even Malvasia, which strongly influences the wine's aromatic profile.

In the glass, lots of orange (the fruit), candied and intense. The wine is bone-dry, but has such a fruity richness. Aged on the full lees, it carries an intense creaminess, while the brief maceration and maturation in small barrels highlight the smokiness and depth of the wine. All in all, surprisingly full-bodied and expressive even at a young age, yet remains refreshingly light with no loss in drinkability. Salted caramel on the finish. Will only gain in finesse.