Like a well-rehearsed band: just 4 people work at the 17-hectare winery of Ewald Zweytick in Ratsch an der Weinstraße (Ehrenhausen). Seasonally, a small team of helpers joins them. Mostly, Ewald likes to be hands-on himself and relies on the top quality of his grapes, to which he always gives the time they need. Yes, this we hear more and more: fully ripe grapes and spontaneous fermentation are certainly a matter of necessity here to authentically bring out the longevity and richness of Ewald's wines. These include estate, local, and single-vineyard wines from the grape varieties Sauvignon Blanc (Ewald's clear number 1), Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Welsch, Sämling, Zweigelt... - and Ewald also gives Gelber Muskateller the spotlight it deserves, as a single-vineyard wine.
Estate / regional wine:
Zweytick's base lineup is formed by the estate wines à la Südsteiermark DAC, also known as regional wines in the Austrian classification system. These are often drunk young, are open and aromatic, affordable and mean to represent their origin in a puristic way. The latter in particular is a major matter of controversy these days - adulteration, fining, distortion of wines identities into styles that are alien to their origin, a huge issue that is still not being discussed enough! We are therefore all the more pleased to be able to offer timeless, unyieldingly authentic table wines of Styrian origin with Ewald's estate wines: Extremely puristic, crystal-clear representations of autochthonous grape varieties, such as Welschriesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Gelber Muskateller and Weißburgunder. Aromatic grape varieties with strong personalities that perform superbly on their own. Harvested fully ripe, spontaneously fermented, matured in steel, straight!
Ehrenhausen, "village" wine:
Among the village lineup we find Ewald's entry-level Chardonnay. There is no regional / estate Chardonnay, thus the entry point here is already at quite a high level. After spontaneous fermentation, the Ehrenhausener spends 12 months in 1500-liter oak barrels. Keywords: elegance, balance, herbaceousness, creamy, refreshing, animating. Pure Styria.
The Sauvignon Blanc too starts to really get going here. The Ehrenhausen village wine is a Riedencuvée, a blend of Ewald's Sauvignon vineyards. These are vinified together spontaneously in steel tanks to create a puristic communicator of origin that simply radiates the charm of its various terroirs. Radiant likely the keyword here!
Site stories:
K3 stands for the 3 vineyards (here: Kögel) from which this Weißburgunder is cuvéed. Sulz, Witschener Herrenberg and Stermetzberg, vines around 30 years old. Together they go into used barriques, wherein the probably most underestimated grape of the Burgundian family matures for 15-18 months. In the glass, it presents itself with fine structure, precise aroma, elegant grip - wood influence yes, sure, but by no means overload. Pinot Blanc can be real fun!
The Höllriegel vineyard is dominated by sand with some limestone. Sauvignon and Muskateller grow here, which score as vineyard wines with a (slightly) earlier ripening window and superb QPR. We have the 20s right now, the Muskateller being a prime example, light-footed and super precise, fine fruit, fresh and salty, timeless. It spends 10 months in the barrel, like the Sauvignon, which works incredibly well. The Sauvignon is a touch more serious and, at under 40€, keeps up with the greats of Styrian Rieden-SB. Robust freshness and herbaceousness, fine cream, impressively refined Sauvignon aromas, ideally balanced, extremely puristic. Big rec.
Another exciting project, the Muskateller from Witscheiner Herrenberg grows on Opok soils and rests in large oak barrels for 18 months. The 2018 truly radiates this tranquillity, with fine, typical aromas on the nose pairing with this solid umami backbone. It's witty, polished, and precise, salty, but already with solid structure and grip, more yeasty than woody, a bit of tea, orange, grapefruit. Already a thought-provoking wine, fits perfectly into this lineup.
Herrenberg Sauvignon "Provocateur": A unique wine of its own style. At first glance, you would equate this Sauvignon with the Gelber Muskateller from the same vineyard and expect a solid chunk of force, the alcohol content fits and the bottle is also quite mature, with 2016 as our current vintage. Well. This one's called "Provocateur", and the tiny "M" on its label is not its only secret. This Sauvignon Blanc from almost 70-year-old vines spends several weeks on its skins and then slumbers, without sulphurization, for 60 months in new 500-litre barrels. Look for that fine oxy note, like an incredibly fine Manzanilla. Balancing, beautifully integrated oak. Honey, blood orange, so much salt. Insanely fresh, red currants and apples don't get out of your head. Stays on the palate forever. Undoubetdly an absolute masterpiece, although not the terroir-cannon as its siblings. More of a noisemaker, large and unyielding, yet always on its feet, resolutely dancing around the palate. May even deserve its own song, I can't get "Dancer" by IDLES and LCD Soundsystem out of my head.
Ewald's top wines grow on the Stermetzberg. Gravel and limestone influences characterize the vines here, which face southeast at an altitude of 400 meters. The Stermetzberg lineup spends around 20 months in French barriques, up to 50% new wood, with bâtonnage also being practiced here in order to keep up with the force of the vines. Authentic, expressive, sometimes eccentric, always with this inner tranquility, full-on Ewald's style. He has used his passion for rock 'n' roll as inspiration here - hi Guns 'n' Roses!
“Tosca”: Grauburgunder, love it or hate it, in this case quite lulling; Tosca is a stunner; all that super fine aroma, orange, pear, honey... then the charming barrique note, walnut, endlessly creamy. The name here comes from the Austrian EDM music project Tosca, passionate, atmospheric, flowing into itself, endless - we get it.
“November Rain”: The Chardonnay that sometimes goes unnoticed behind Ewald's grape of choice, the Sauvignon - but truly has no need to hide, even internationally. A wine of character that exudes that perfectionist, Burgundian balance and structure, but even blind, still leads straight to southern Styria, and, for those who know, even directly to Ewald. Definitely one to try.
“Don’t Cry”: Sauvignon Blanc. #Dontcrydrinkwin, they say. The statement that Zweytick make the wines they themselves like to drink, and simply sell the remaining bottles, starts to sound entirely earnest here... This Sauvignon is difficult to compare - far removed from aroma bombs from overseas, it has that rough, puristic Loire touch, but has more width, it is louder, craves peace and time. Once the baby fat falls off, caramel and honey nestle in, a robust acid structure keeps it alive, likely forever.
“Heaven’s Door”: Sauvignon Blanc - Intracellular! A selection of only the best grapes, destemmed for 4-6 weeks in a pressure tank for carbonic fermentation. This is where the full depth of the grapes' aromas is teased out. After a fine pressing, they are then transferred to their new home, (100%!) new barrique. 20 months on the full lees with bâtonnage. The resulting wine is almost maximalist in style, but after just a few years it starts to open up incredibly beautifully. Ultra-sophisticated use of wood, so much power from the vines behind it, still so playful, fruity and lively thanks to the IZ. A statement. Harmonious. Ethereal!
